The Volcanic White Wines of Somló

Driving through the Northwest Hungarian countryside from the Austrian border towards Budapest, the scenery is pretty repetitive and flat, with only a few small hills dotting the countryside until you reach the Bakony mountains. Halfway through this flat landscape, one steep, craggy hill stands out, looming over the landscape: the Somló mountain.

The Somló mountain was formed millions of years ago when most of Hungary was covered in water, known as the Pannonian Sea. As the sea slowly drained, lava erupted from underneath the surface, forming several mountains, including the mountains of the Tokaj wine region, Badacsony, the hills north of the Balaton lake, and of course, the mountain of Somló.

The Somló mountain has eroded over millennia, but its extinct volcano shape is still recognizable. The upper part of the hill is covered in a forest with the ruins of the old Somló castle located at the top, making it a popular trekking spot in the summer. The “skirt” of the mountain, on the other hand, is planted full of grapevines, often divided into tiny parcels with a few rows each, owned by small private vintners.

Winemakers have known for centuries that the mixture of steep, sunny terrain, tough basalt soils, sunny climate, and cool breeze from Lake Balaton are ideal for making intense, powerful white wines. While researchers around the world are still debating about how soil types affect flavors in wine, the character of Somló wines undeniably mirrors the basalt soils that the mountain is made up of. The wines grown here are intense, volcanic and dry, with an enormous aging potential and a unique, flinty character.

Somló is one of Hungary’s smallest wine regions. Officially, only local white grape varieties are allowed, although some wineries like Kreinbacher are experimenting with red grapes such as Kékfrankos and Syrah. The most typical varieties include Furmint, Hárslevelű, Olaszrizling (Welshriesling), Juhfark and Tramini (Gewürztraminer). Due to the strong character of the region, it’s commonly said that the wines from Somló taste primarily like Somló, and only secondly like their respective grape varieties.

The iconic grape of the area is Juhfark, found almost exclusively in Somló. The name means “sheep’s tail” and comes from the long, thin shape of the grape bunches. Juhfark produces wines with a mild aroma and crisp, intense acidity, making it especially good at bringing out the flavors of the volcanic soils it’s usually grown in, and it can age for many years. Legend has it that drinking Juhfark from Somló (Somlói Juhfark) on a wedding night will ensure that the newlyweds’ first child will be a boy.

The two wineries that we offer are distinctly different in their approach to winemaking, but share a common commitment to organic practices and a dedication to producing exceptional wines. Kreinbacher Winery is a modern operation, equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, including a half-underground sparkling wine cellar. Their focus is on producing traditional grape varieties in a contemporary and sophisticated form. In addition to their own vineyards, Kreinbacher works with small-scale local farmers, providing them with support and assistance in growing and harvesting grapes.

On the other hand, Imre Györgykovács, one of the classic names in the region, cultivates grapes on only a couple of hectares of land, producing unique wines with a distinctly local character. He and his wife, Gyöngyi, have remained devoted to their small vineyard, which they feel they can best manage themselves. Despite being semi-retired, Kreinbacher has been working with Imre to continue producing his wines. We’ve written about Imre in the past:

Everything about Somló feels like a fairytale: the jagged black mountain jumps out of the scenery, like someone put it there, standing alone on an otherwise empty plain. The roads curve unrealistically up to the mountain crest, while cottages from another era line the way. And in the middle of this fairytale is Imre Györgykovács and his wife, Gyöngyi. Together, they cultivate grapes in a tiny vineyard of only 1,5 hectares, which has been just big enough for them to handle themselves. They never wanted to expand, because they felt they could only focus on a vineyard this size.
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Both wineries have embraced organic farming practices, with the entire Somló region set to switch to certified organic methods in 2023. The result is wines that are not only delicious but also showcase the region’s unique terroir.

Somló wines are a hidden gem in Hungarian winemaking, requiring time and patience to fully appreciate. But for those who take the time to savor them, they offer an intense and rich flavor that is uniquely local, providing a true sense of place.